It started with a centreboard leak....

[KeithG]

So, here's my first post on the CVRDA forum.
I've been looking after an ancient(ish) Enterprise on the Isles of Scilly for the last 12 years or so.
The sail number it came with is 5736, but I can't track down any other hard evidence engraved on the hull.
Having put up with a leaky centreboard for the last couple of years and having applied too much Sikaflex, I decided to bite the bullet and fix it properly.

So I now have a bare wood restoration on the go. The boat is stripped out and I have a pile of oddly shaped wooden bits with varying amounts of varnish and deck paint that needs removing.

I've a couple of questions...
1. When I took the centreboard casing out (very easily as the screws virtually pulled out and the cascamite had disappeared) I managed to bodger both the hard wood knees.
In my research I've seen some centreboard casing knees that extend far enough towards the sides to be able to support the bench seats. This seems a good idea as the current seat installation involves a skinny piece of wood screwed hopefully into the side rib but with no support on the distal end. Does anyone have a drawing for this extended knee design that they might be able to share.

2. Secondly, screws... The 50 odd year old phosphor bronze screws had virtually disintegrated as I dis-assembled the dinghy. Should I use Phoshor bronze again or stainless when I put it all back together?
3. lastly, I'm planning on using resin and fillet joints to stick it all back together. Will the resin be sufficient to waterproof the bare wood, or should it all be varnished before its glued down?

sorry for the deluge of questions, but I'd like to do a good enough job to keep it all together for another 50 years.

Regards, Keith on Scilly

[sam mason]

Enterprise centreboard case knee. The more modern one piece knee is vastly superior to the old type. Full drawings are available on Enterprise plans although these are not strictly needed. Photograph an existing knee on a newer boat and make a template to suit when you know where you are going. Easy. Epoxy needs to go onto bare wood NOT varnish. Priming a joint with a SLIGHTLY thinned epoxy will improve adhesion on very dense timber but is mostly a needless luxury.
I would always use stainless screws over brass/ bronze if for no other reason than they are easier to get. Self tappers are a better bet on old boats than wood screws.
Good lick with the job

[JimC]

And yes, always best to varnish over epoxy. It protexts the epoxy from UV degradation.

[chris]

Make sure the wood is bone dry for epoxy too.

[Michael Brigg]

...Good lick with the job

Make sure the wood is bone dry for epoxy too.

Conflicting views or opposites attract?

It started with a kiss...

[sam mason]

This computer cant spell!! Bet you used to be or still are a teacher with a red pencil
Sam

[Nigel]

More likely a doctor. Good job this is typed rather than handwritten

[KeithG]

Thanks for the feedback. Got a big box with resin and stuff in today's freight so will start off by rebuilding the centre board casing.

Will post photos if I get around to it.