British Moth (90's) deck project

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Sphinx
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2022 9:15 pm

British Moth (90's) deck project

Post by Sphinx »

I have a late 90’s all wooden British Moth by a reputable builder – the hull and deck are 100% structurally sound and straight, and none of the internal spaces appear to have ever suffered any water ingress.
So far so good – however whilst the boat was winter stored indoors until the last couple of years, those two spent outside resulted in frost damage to the deck ply – no delamination or major joint splits, but visual spoiling of the finished surfaces.

The previous owner tackled this by stripping back then applying West Systems 105 – unfortunately the stripping appears to have been by power tool and has been inconsistent – leaving raised yellowed opaque patches that can be felt under fingertips (old varnish I think) and also cross-grain grooves where the tools have been applied too enthusiastically – deep enough to be seen and felt under fingertips. There is also a larger bleached area along one side deck, and some black staining on the rear deck.

If money was not an issue, I’d get it re-decked – but it is, so after some considerable research (including CVRDA – thanks!) I have a plan, but also have some questions as I’ve not done this before and would greatly appreciate any feedback or suggestions from those with more experience of this.

My plan is (in a dry warm workshop if I can find one to rent!):
1. Strip all fittings, check and sort any raised pins.
2. Hand sand strip back to bare ply working with the grain at all times (I’m worried that a heat-gun might disturb the integrity of ply and joints etc).
3. Bleach out any black staining using oxalic acid/water, dry out, re-sand.
4. Apply 3+ coats of West System 105 using 207 Special Clear hardener, with additional layer(s) where the ply has been grooved in an attempt to level up these areas. Following coats will be applied on tacky coats without full curing as advised by West Systems, using roller then tipping.
5. Once the epoxy has cured fully, wet-flat this off with 120-150grit, clean off and dry thoroughly, then apply 3+ coats of International Perfection Plus 2-pack varnish (or later equivalent) for UV protection.
6. Finish with 2-3 coats Hemple Dura Satin (I prefer a satin finish).

Questions:
1. Am I overthinking the heat gun issue – would it be a better approach to melt and scrape off the previous epoxy?
2. Before Step 4 above (applying 105), is it possible to re-stain the entire deck to try to bring some consistency to the colour – particularly if the previous attempt has compromised the top layer of ply veneer in some places? I do not want the window-frame brown paint look, but am concerned whether a real stain will struggle to soak into ply that has probably been re-varnished several times since first build. I am considering Sadolin Classic Wood Protection (exterior) Mahogany – thoughts?
3. As the International Perfection Plus varnish has been retired, if I can’t get this, does anyone have an equivalent recommendation for good clear UV protection (eg Hemple Diamond 2-pack)?
4. Any other comments on the proposed plan?

Any feedback appreciated
Alan P.
Posts: 137
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:15 pm
Location: Allier, France

Re: British Moth (90's) deck project

Post by Alan P. »

I'm sure there are folk in CVRDA with far more knowledge about this sort of thing but as a Painting and Decorating tradesman can I offer a suggestion re Q2 and the Sadolin product?. This is a covering coat and not a pure wood staining product. It may or may not take well to having an epoxy coating put on top of it. I have my doubts. Look out for a "wood dye" product instead. I've used the "Blackfriars" brand in the past but whether this is still available, I don't know. I think it will take an epoxy coating when fully dry but certainly ok with any varnish. A trade decorating supplier will stock wood dyes.
I stripped an OK deck of old epoxy with an hot air gun. It did not take a lot of heat to shift it so the ply never got that warm. Keep the gun moving. Wear a good quality face mask. Get lots and lots of ventilation if working indoors.
Hope this helps
OK 1211 Peter Crew wood 1968
Gull 2892 Hartley MK6 Plastic 2014
Streaker 1582. Home built. Wood 2005
Pat
Posts: 2555
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:42 pm
Location: West Wiltshire (Wessex)

Re: British Moth (90's) deck project

Post by Pat »

Sandy's just done one of our boats with Epifanes mahogany stain and it is looking good so far. Still adding layers of varnish. Not cheap though.
(Half Cut and What a Lark Removals Ltd)
JimC
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Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 10:24 pm
Location: Surrey
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Re: British Moth (90's) deck project

Post by JimC »

All that epoxy and other finishing material feels like a very substantial way on the road to the cost of replacement deck, which will be a far better job. All that money on coatings on a ruined deck feels like sows ear stuff to me. People get very sniffy about exterior grade ply, but for a budget deck replacement reckon it's quite good enough. If you cost exterior grade ply and less deluxe varnish reckon you'll get a far better result for much the same money.
Sphinx
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2022 9:15 pm

Re: British Moth (90's) deck project

Post by Sphinx »

Many thanks all for the guidance on epoxy removal, and on types of stains - noted.
I’d love to replace the deck but don’t think for one moment that i have the skills or the accuracy (or the tools) to do it myself. As cost for replacement deck has been suggested to be in excess of £1000, I think I’ve no choice but to open some cans!
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